Tokyo
Thirteen cities pretending to be one. Change trains and the whole register changes with it.
Things to do in Tokyo
Where to stay in Tokyo
Tokyo in a day, two days, three
Landmarks in Tokyo
Names and UNESCO status only. Ticks are yours and stay on this device.
From the airport
When to go to Tokyo: Mar or Apr or Oct or Nov
The heat breaks and the gardens turn — the best light of the year.
Guides about here

The rail pass is wrong for Tokyo, the subway pass misses the Yamanote, and the Suica is only sold in two places. What to fix before anything else.
Rina Matsuda · 2 Sep 2026
Four days is the floor, five is the answer and seven is generous. What each additional day actually buys, and why the geography decides it rather than the list.
Rina Matsuda · 2 Sep 2026
Tokyo has more starred restaurants than any city on earth and that is not where to eat. The lunch rule, the department store basement, and how to book.
Rina Matsuda · 2 Sep 2026
Tokyo wins on almost everything and Osaka wins the one round that decides a lot of trips. Six rounds with a winner each, and why you can have both.
Rina Matsuda · 2 Sep 2026